10 Comments

  1. Carol
    February 26, 2016 @ 12:26 pm

    Thanks Steve! I use pocket holes all the time and I still learned some stuff from your video. On painted projects I use dry-wall spackle to fill the holes. It’s a lot cheaper than the wooden plugs and I can make it flush pretty easily. Sands easily as well.

    Reply

  2. Ken
    February 26, 2016 @ 1:18 pm

    Steve,

    Did you lose the Kreg Stop-Collar Setting Block?

    Use it to set the Stop-Collar based upon screw length.

    Reply

  3. Ed Ryon
    February 26, 2016 @ 1:29 pm

    I have noticed on the new Kreg jigs, they have a drill bit depth gauge for the stop collar. They also did not add color to the gauge on the side of the jig to make it easier to see the size or depth chart.
    Very good video and info for the Kreg jig and screw selections, Please keep up the good work.

    Reply

  4. Rick Starr
    February 26, 2016 @ 1:41 pm

    Hi Steve! I am a devout user and believer in pocket holes and also use the Kreg system. My most interesting use was in a bedroom I had to rebuild after a tree fell on it and crushed it. Now the entire interior of my house has exposed beam ceilings. (all ceiling joists are visible) When the contractor did the bedroom framing they moved the ceiling joists up so the room would have an 8 foot high flat ceiling. This did not match up to the rest of the house at all. After dismissing the contractor I wasn’t sure how I was going to make the ceiling look like the rest of the house. And then I thought to attach a 2×10 to the bottom of the upper ceiling joists and extend it down. These boards needed to be almost 11 feet long.
    It occurred to me that since these would not be load-bearing that I could attach them using pocket holes. Albeit a lot of them. So each end of the beams have 5 pocket screws attaching it to the walls and then I used many screws on both sides of the board’s length to attach it in parallel to the joist above it.
    Needless to say, this method aligned each board to the one above perfectly and they are completely solid. Now the room looks just like the rest of the house. As always…love your show!

    Reply

  5. Bob Loken
    February 26, 2016 @ 6:20 pm

    Great video, answered alot of questions I had, now I can take out a second mortgage and get the jig.

    Reply

  6. Dan
    February 27, 2016 @ 6:12 am

    This is a great way for good solid wood joinery that will last

    Reply

  7. Brent Irvine
    February 27, 2016 @ 10:44 am

    A neat modification I read about a while back was to use a tiny bit of white paint on the jig’s engraved (?) numbers and lines so they are readable. Works beautifully.

    B

    Reply

  8. coutch
    February 29, 2016 @ 10:07 am

    Thanks for this. There was one thing I kept screwing up (pun intended) in that I was pointing toward the outside edge of the board’s end for some of the joints.

    Reply

  9. John
    October 15, 2016 @ 3:04 pm

    Brilliant. None of the hundreds of other youtube videos talk about clutch settings on your drill. This was my first mistake. The pieces shift when driving the screw, even with good clamping. Now I use a low clutch setting and sometimes just stop it and finish by hand. This prevents over tightening which caused my problem. Also no need to use Kregs fancy stepped block jig to adjust the screw length. Your way is elegantly simple. I actually use a 10 cent piece. Talking about screw direction was also informative. The kreg manuals and videos don’t mention this. Thanks heaps for this .

    Reply

  10. Manie Louw
    December 4, 2017 @ 2:04 am

    Well done. Very informative. I really liked the video. Thanks

    Reply

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