1. Ted
    April 3, 2015 @ 12:37 pm

    “Using a push stick or a push block (Like the GRR-RIPPER!) to advance the board through the blade is absolutely necessary to keep your fingers safe when ripping.”

    Funny, I haven’t noticed any blood all those times I ripped boards over 3″ wide without a push stick or block. Maybe they aren’t “absolutely necessary” for all ripping.


  2. Geoff Geller
    April 3, 2015 @ 1:27 pm

    I built one of these crosscut sled the last time you made one, using solid oak for the runners. Unfortunately, as wood will want to do, the runners thickness changed over time, so that the runners no longer fit in the tablesaw slots. Unless you have a solution to wood changing dimension, I think making the runners out of a plastic (phenyl?) cutting board may make more sense.


    • Luis
      April 4, 2015 @ 4:30 pm

      Try to use aluminum runners, the aluminum it´s easy to buy and easy to cut, and it´s a good option, i use it for different operations (like fences) on my drill press.


    • Dave
      November 25, 2016 @ 7:36 pm

      Lots of companies have runners made from metal. They even have adjustment screws in them for a perfect fit and they don’t cost a lot. I vote for metal and not shop built.


  3. Bill Roos
    April 3, 2015 @ 1:39 pm

    Loved the subliminal message of Matthias.


  4. Andrew
    April 3, 2015 @ 3:34 pm

    Terrific project. Miters and square cuts have been a thorn in my side on both my miter and table saw. Going to try and shrink this down a bit to work with my “portable/jobsite” table saw.


  5. Eric Hardy
    April 3, 2015 @ 4:07 pm

    Geoff, he has the problem almost solved entirely with the ply runners. My sled runners I used with Tassie Oak which could be 1 of a few different varieties of red oak. And a boatbuilding video showed me not long ago how much a piece of red oak soakes up moisture, you could almost use it as a sponge. Marine ply or form ply (for concreting) are both designed to throw moisture at. I’ll be rebuilding mine with ply soon enough.


  6. leanne
    April 28, 2016 @ 7:55 pm

    just wondering if there is a solution to my problem. I was all ready to build a cross cut sled for my saw today when I noticed that it doesn’t have any slots but a sliding mitre top. I have already been told to get rid of it, however I cannot afford a new saw and it doesn’t get used a whole lot. I have been anxious to start building and cannot seem to find an answer. thanks


    • Dave
      November 25, 2016 @ 7:40 pm

      I have seen people that will put a guide on the outside of the project ans use the end of the table to guide the project through the saw. This would work if (and only if) you could saw off the ends of any kind of rip fence attachment without harming the attachment. Put 1 rail on each end of the sled.


  7. Aloyuis
    June 15, 2016 @ 1:29 am

    @ leanne,

    Maybe you could use the edge of the table saw bed for the runners
    to slide against.

    Add a horizontal piece to the bottom of the slides to stop the sled from
    rising up.


  8. Carson wood
    August 28, 2016 @ 3:57 pm

    Is there a materials list posted anywhere?


    • Gabe
      May 4, 2018 @ 7:01 pm

      Did you ever find one?


  9. Danielle
    January 22, 2017 @ 1:48 pm

    Wanted to make a cross cut sled but my budget skilsaw table saw has tabs over the groove. So a solid wood piece will not slide through. I would have to trim a groove into the sides. Maybe…or maybe ill purchaseba second OEM miter attachment then use the two metal pieces to scre onto the sled.


  10. Richard
    August 17, 2017 @ 5:16 pm

    I am totally novice to metal & wood work !

    Any good idea about making those aluminium runner would be appreciated.


  11. butch geier
    September 23, 2017 @ 10:27 pm

    leanne and Danielle [and probably others]

    I have a Ryobi table saw that has ‘tabbed’ grooves.
    I wanted to make this, but could not until i figured out how to get past the tabbed groove issue.

    This is how i solved it.

    I cut two glides to fit the width of the track and about 1/4″ taller than the top of the track.
    I then slid them into the tracks until they made contact with the tabs. Once abutting the tabs, i tapped the glides about an inch into the tab to ‘imprint’ their positions onto the glide.
    After ‘imprinting’, i tapped the glide out.

    I lowered the saw’s blade so it was just proud of the table, aligned the imprint on the glide to the blade, adjusted the fence so there was enough space between it and the blade to reach the grove etched into the glide.

    I lowered the blade to make a rabbett [not sure if correct term], for the tabs to fit into.
    Worked like a charm.

    I will admit, i was lucky on two counts.
    1. the blade’s width was an almost exact match to the thickness of the tab [it is a bit tight, but it does glide]
    2. i had the blade set to the right height to fit the tabs on the first go. Would probably be wise to set the blade as low as it can go then work up to the height you need.


    • Mnemonic76
      November 23, 2017 @ 7:09 pm

      Or, you can carefully file off the pesky tabs like I did, because those only work with the crummy miter gauge that you will never want to use again, there is no harm. Just take your time with a flat bastard file and you will ultimately be improving the saw. Oh, and you probably will have better luck ripping the 1/4″ ply to width (Or use plastic) than trying to find an extrudednaluminum stock that fits that odd size slot.


  12. Skip
    December 4, 2017 @ 9:08 pm

    Where can you find a steel level anymore?


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