1. krehmann
    September 30, 2011 @ 7:24 pm

    Hey Steve. I can’t find those WWMM certified miter sled weight blocks. Are those special ordered?


  2. Dom DiCara
    October 1, 2011 @ 4:58 pm

    GReat video and very timely….I will be making one tomorrow!

    Thanks Steve!


  3. PaulF
    October 1, 2011 @ 5:46 pm

    If your miter gauge is that sloppy you should either fix it, or get a better after market one. It has to be adversly affecting you in more ways than just doing mitered corners. Another thing forget those marks on the gauge, just go to an art supply store and get a plastic 45 triangle and use it when you set your miter on your saw. It works for both 45 and 90 settings. A good 8″ plastic 45 triangle should set you back maybe $3. Just remember when you butt the triangle on the saw blade to make sure it isn’t resting on a tooth. No biggie really but I figured I’d mention it.

    I’m not even going to get into how those wooden guide rails you made would never work here with the humidity variations we enjoy. Oh wait, I guess I just did!

    Anyohw it looked like a great jig build for you but it also exposed other areas you should address. It wasn’t quite vise week but at least it was a nice jig episode I suppose …


  4. alexhb
    October 3, 2011 @ 5:39 pm

    This comment has been removed by the author.


  5. alexhb
    October 3, 2011 @ 5:41 pm

    Just a little tip… I use UHMV plastic for table saw jig runners…. that I find in the form of plastic cutting boards! Once you get it to size and epoxy it into place, it’ll give you Matthias Wandel-esque accuracy every time no matter the humidity.


  6. Dwain
    September 7, 2012 @ 10:38 am

    I have used aluminum stock for my runners. The are really nice. I spend $12.00 for enough runners to build a mitre sled, cross cut sled and a panel cutting jig. I agree with Paul about the drafting square. It’s much more accurate than my Empire combo square. I would also suggest adding a back fence. It helps keep the sled sturdy, but more importantly, it keeps your hands far away from the blade. Just my two cents…


  7. Dwain
    September 7, 2012 @ 10:39 am

    BTW, I want to thank Steve for putting this stuff out. It really gives me confidence to try new things after watching Steve do them.


  8. Ray Rauch
    March 29, 2013 @ 10:39 am

    Thanks for the post! I always cringed when I needed to make these cuts in the past. I’ve got a project next that is going to require a ton of them so this was a gem of a find! Much appreciated!


  9. Tomasz Rydzyński
    August 27, 2013 @ 2:10 pm

    Hi, thanks for the video. In my humble opinion the step of adjusting the second top piece for a perfect 90° angle could be eliminated. Instead of using two separate pieces of wood, just use one, with an easy to make 90°, then cut through it. I.e. take a square piece, make an L-shape out of it, mount it at roughly 45°, then cut through the L. I guess now the hardest part is putting the L in a place where the blade will hit it at the right spot ;-).


  10. Anonymous
    September 6, 2014 @ 9:15 am

    Thanks for a great video.
    I too are interested in table saws and you can review some of them at http://www.besttablesaw.net


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