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12 Comments

  1. Anonymous
    March 19, 2014 @ 3:20 pm

    Thanks so much for all your great videos. Man I can’t stop watching them and I’m getting psyched to do some of them when I get some time. Love the bench with 2 by 4’s and 1 by 3’s . Their fun to watch and I love that you show your human like the rest of us.

    Reply

  2. 7.62x54r
    March 19, 2014 @ 3:43 pm

    I put the finish on the bottom first and that way when it’s sitting on the nails (I like “painter’s pyramids”) the top is up and any little dimples the nails might leave are on the bottom.

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  3. Anonymous
    March 19, 2014 @ 3:44 pm

    @ Anonymous: I never show my human to anyone …. 🙂

    Reply

  4. Chris
    March 19, 2014 @ 4:12 pm

    Steve, Great Mere Mini. Good information that I am going to put to use on some pieces I am workin’ on.

    Reply

  5. Anonymous
    March 19, 2014 @ 5:28 pm

    You still rub the finish out?

    Reply

  6. Anonymous
    March 20, 2014 @ 9:45 am

    can it be used on a new baby crib?

    Reply

  7. Anonymous
    March 20, 2014 @ 8:40 pm

    HI Steve .. big fan of WWMM.
    I use 0000 grade steel wool on some pieces sometimes with a light oil. Do you think that 320 grit is even smoother ??
    Regards

    Reply

  8. Anonymous
    March 24, 2014 @ 9:07 am

    Thanks Steve – – I took a finishing class and for lacquer finish to “de-nib’ the finish – rather than just use a really high grit, or as some old books would suggest using “worn out 180 grit” we just used the paper backing side of the sandpaper – – oldtimers would just rub the surface with a brown kraft paper grocery bag (back before everything went plastic).

    The kraft paper is just the right grittiness to smooth the surface with little risk of cutting through the finish.

    Dave

    Reply

  9. littleboatiris
    March 28, 2014 @ 8:00 am

    Hi Steve, I was thinking about this post on the drive in to work this morning, and thought I would chime in. I do a lot of refinishing on teak since we have a boat, and much of the interior wood has spar varnish on it. I learned early on to sand down the teak, then apply a layer of varnish cut with varsol or mineral spirits. A second coat would be pure varnish, then a third coat would be cut with mineral spirits again. The reason for this is that the natural oils in the teak will repel most finishes and it will flake off in a few years. The oil in the first coat wil lallow th efinish to penetrate deeper and bond to the teak oils. The final coat gets cut so that it will bond better to the second, and so that it will run better to fill any inconsistencies. Between each coat, I sand with successively finer paper.

    Any thoughts on this? There is an example at the end of this post… http://frosthaus.blogspot.ca/2012/03/success-in-stereo.html

    Reply

  10. Pete
    August 22, 2016 @ 5:41 pm

    Steve, love these. Should change the name of these short clips to “Mini Mere” , ala Austin Powers

    Reply

  11. Tim Sluder
    August 22, 2016 @ 6:47 pm

    Steve, I found something the works just as good as tack cloth, I use the micro-fiber clothes that I spray with a fine mist of water (not wet but very lightly damp). The cloth is rubbed together and after a few minutes, I wipe off my boards. The clothes can be washed and reused.

    Reply

  12. RaiderRoss
    August 23, 2016 @ 8:21 am

    For that final sanding, I use a plain brown paper bag. Awesome for a final sanding without the scratching!

    Reply

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