1. Joe McDonald
    April 22, 2016 @ 11:17 am

    Nice explanation on the basics of using glue for MeMos. The only thing I would add is that the better the pieces of wood fit together before gluing, the better the glue will hold – especially on edge to edge glue ups. If you have to use clamps to pull the joint together, you’ve glued in a lot of stress to the joint that may “pop” at some time in the future.

    All in all, nice job…


    • Blake Dozier
      July 30, 2017 @ 1:03 pm

      Are you saying that I have wasted a lot of money on clamps? Surely, you do not mean to retire all my clamps?


  2. Mike Bruni
    April 22, 2016 @ 5:17 pm

    Can you mix different brands of glue as long as they are basically the same? Like one brand of regular wood glue with another brand? Half-a-bottle of this with half-a-bottle of that.


  3. Jason Vaughn
    April 22, 2016 @ 7:55 pm

    Titebond ii is awesome stiff and is definitely my go to. But, and there’s always a but, isn’t there? There are certain woods that it will not bond with. Especially dense woods like ipe and camaroon for instance, do better with resin/poly glues like gorilla glue, just be prepared for the foam-like expansion from the seams. Titebond II will handle 99% of most woodworking applications perfectly, but if you’re having problems getting a piece to stick, maybe a polyurethane based glue is what you need.


  4. Tim Johnson
    April 22, 2016 @ 11:47 pm

    ‘Glueing up’ is something I have difficulty with. Here’s the problem. Thanks to a couple of strokes I lost the use of my left hand…of course I’m left handed. Consequently glue get’s all over the place…you wouldn’t believe the amount of mess and the number of times I’ve glued myself to the bench… or my workpiece. To complicate matters further my work spaces are small…either my 7′ x 8′ shed at home or my 31′ vintage wooden boat…when I find a new hobby to help me relax and recover I like a challenge.

    The majority of the work on the boat has been ‘letting in’ new sections of mahogany. Gorilla Glue has been the first choice as it gives me plenty of time to clamp and the expanding foam makes a fantastic watertight seal. Excess is easily cleaned with a sharp chisel and then sanded. It’s my smaller projects at home that cause problems. Holding pieces to be glued, and then holding them while glue is applied and then clamping…and of course everything with glue on it sliding around.

    Can anyone think of a tool or jig…fairly universal, but not taking up too much room… that would help position pieces so they can be glued and then a means of getting the glue where it needs to be and the pieces clamped quickly? Anything to save the hours of cleanup I’m having to do at the minute…not to mention the withering looks my Mrs gives me when she comes to extricate me from my latest sticky situation.


    • Michael O'Donnell
      June 6, 2016 @ 4:22 pm

      Tim, perhaps you might consider using some dowels or a biscuit joiner. This would hold your workpiece in alignment until you clamp. Once aligned, you could maybe use a pin nailer or brad nailer to secure the joint until the glue dries. If you “boat nail” or “toe nail” the joint, (two nails at angles) it cannot move (but best be sure you are fixtures, clamped, dowels, or somehow held in alignment before putting in brads at angles). Another thought is a sacrificial bench top. You can use a brad nailed to set blocks onto the top to hold the bits loosely. Spread your glue, drop the bits in, and then slide a few wedges to tighten all up.

      There is a large group of folks that embrace woodworking with nothing but hand tools. They’ve done a wonderful job capturing the old methods of workbenches. I encourage you to do some reading on bench hooks and other various devices and see if any can be applied to your projects and abilities.

      Best of luck in your endeavors,
      Michael O’Donnell


  5. Chuck
    April 23, 2016 @ 6:46 am

    Great video for us novices; thanks for remembering that there are those who are just beginning the hobby and this advice from experienced people like yourself is very helpful and appreciated.


  6. Larry
    April 23, 2016 @ 1:50 pm

    Do you plan on trying Titebond’s new Quick & Thick glue? If you do, how about an update? Thanks


  7. Lyn
    April 28, 2016 @ 8:59 am

    I’d add to Jason’s comment about Gorilla glue. It’s the only glue I know that will work at temperatures around freezing. That makes it good for winter projects in unheated workshops (like mine) and outside. It’s also completely waterproof (Titebond II is only water resistant) so, once again, good for outside projects. I used it to make some 14ft long laminated beams for a gazebo and after a year of weather exposure in SE Pennsylvania I see absolutely no problems with the adhesion.
    Like you, my go-to glue for wood is Titebond II. I have found an easy way to do the clean-up of squeeze out: Spritz the joint with water using a spray bottle (I use an old Windex bottle). A quick vigorous wipe with a cloth and the glue is all gone. Just a light sanding before applying your finish (which you would do anyway), and you are good to go.


  8. Master Sawdust Maker
    May 1, 2016 @ 8:47 pm

    See article at: http://www.titebond.com/news_article/12-01-18/How_Strong_Is_Your_Glue.aspx

    Should answer everyone’s questions about gluing.


  9. Paga
    May 7, 2016 @ 11:29 pm

    Wow, I’m beginning to look into woodworking and your blog/youtube channel is absolutely the best. I loved this episode about glues (so much to learn…).

    Have you considered doing an episode about priming, painting and staining? My ideal is to build a few things that will stay outside (cat house, furniture, etc), and I can only find confusing opinions on the web on the best materials, procedures, etc.


  10. Lhez
    June 16, 2016 @ 3:39 am

    Great woodworking. I’m looking forward for your next post.

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    June 23, 2016 @ 2:04 am

    I didn’t know that glue can be useful in such a variety of situation. It’s very powerful, I should say 🙂


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    I am really impressed by the things that glue can glue:). Your article showed that glue can be for very different subjects not only for papers.


  14. Bill
    November 20, 2016 @ 9:58 am

    Very nice, very helpful for beginner and expert alike.
    Glad I found your site.


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    March 16, 2017 @ 1:56 pm

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    May 17, 2017 @ 8:56 am

    Well, I’ll need to find some good wood glue. I guess, that it would be helpful if you’ll recommend me something on that.


  17. Blake Dozier
    July 30, 2017 @ 12:19 pm

    FYI: Some time ago I called up the folks at Titebond. I don’t remember the initial reason for the call but I did ask them about clamping pressure. I asked whether you could get clamps too tight and squeeze out too much glue. The answer I got was that the Titebond people had tried to “overclamp” and found that it seemed to be impossible. So…Clamp away! It ain’t gonna hurt the joint.

    Thank you for all the help and hints. A great website.


  18. Fred Diffenderfer
    December 2, 2017 @ 4:04 pm

    I just finished a “C-Table”. I used solid red oak wood, tight bond ll glue, minwax golden oak stein and 4 coats of minwax polyurithane. I glued and clamped each joining surface for a minimum of 24 hours. I used no nails and no screws, only glue.
    How long will tight bond ll be expected to hold this table together?


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  20. AM ME
    January 29, 2018 @ 10:21 pm

    I need a wood glued with a heat softener and then harden after cooling
    Like the clip below

    Thank you very much for your help


  21. Darren
    March 3, 2018 @ 2:57 pm

    How is “environmental impact” a relevant consideration? Are there any glue containers that can’t be tossed in the trash, or any glue that will burn a hole to the center of the earth?

    Ignore the so-called “environmental impact” when choosing a glue. The environment will be fine.


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